Here I go again, off to foreign land, off to new things(new surfboardey things), and contemplating my navel.
My sister and I went with our Mom and Dad down to Mexico, to a little slice of town called Troncones. The flights down were great, because of all the turbulence. I am a huge fan of turbulence, because it breaks the monotony of a flight, no matter how short. It also makes me feel like I’m riding a rollercoaster, which I like. A lot.
Anyhow, we flew, landed, and strolled into wintery Mexico, which is a chilly 90ish degrees Fahrenheit(30-something C, I think), and then got into an actual cold environment. Our taxi driver must’ve been overly warm, or thought that we were, and had a piece of the Arctic in his radiator.
We arrived at Hacienda Eden, which is a kickass little set of rooms and bungalows directly on the beach, in a quiet stretch of similar getaways. Crescent beach, sandy, with rocky bits at each horn of the crescent. Perfect for all the things I wanted to do at the beach. Swimming, boogeyboarding, bodyboarding, sauntering, looking at a super large, super chill iguana, ambling, eating tasty eats, walking, drinking a drink made primarily of guacamole, and strolling. I also read books, and felt super literate about that.
Then, the highlight of the trip: Surfing lessons. Day one, we hang out on shore with Mike, the instructor and owner of Tsunami Surf and embodiment of surfer dude. He was sorta like a US-American version of Crush, from Finding Nemo(2003). Day one was just going through “branding” on the beach. Not actual branding, like with red-hot pokers. It was Mike’s way of explaining what sort of mindbrain(neurological) process was happening. The basic idea was, start standing up in the proper surfing position, bust out a sweet reverse pop-up, pretend to paddle, then do the actual pop-up, which you already practiced, just in reverse, and “brand” that process into your brain/muscles. It worked out really well, because after that, we went and tried to catch the white water in the breaking surf. And we did! It was more fun than I knew how to handle, and Mike the Instructor had to call a time-out so that I would come back to shore. We were all so tired, but I felt good about surfing, despite doing super sumo squats to bring my center of gravity down. My quadriceps were not pleased^^.
The next day was more practice in the whitewater, which was good. It gave us all time to get more sore, and also spend more time catching waves! All of which led to day three and going out into deep water and catching the real waves. Glorious. We parked near the fishing channel, which is a bit deeper and calmer then the rest of that particular stretch of water, and sat down to talk about getting out to the waves, and not just getting trashed by the surf. We ambled to one landmark and then to a second one, so that we had something on land to tell us where to be, and where not to be. Then it was go time.
Weather: sunny and drizzling. Mood: Stoked and nervous. Waves: Blue-green and inviting. I was intimidated by them, and by the deep water. Out into the shallows we sloshed, and then paddled out past/through breaking waves, until we got out past the impact zone. Then the sky went all angry and grey, and dumped rain on us. It was epic; floating on water, pelted by water, with huge(to my eyes) waves rolling past.
Then we noodled over closer to the breaking waves, and set up to catch one. I got four before we went back to shore, though I wished for a few more. However, I was sore, and thought, at my core, I got what I came for. Surfing galore, so hear me roar!
I am hooked, and now I want a board and a coast.
Now I want to spend time with a new line of thought. Maturity.
I like me, said a really stupid person once, but you know what? I like me, too. However, I’m not where I want to be as a person yet, and this vacation back in Oregon is really making that clear to me. I’m not financially independent yet, haven’t completed a degree, and am still unhappy about starting some sort of full-time job and paying taxes into a system I only partially like. So, plenty of room for improvement, at least in concrete, wordly matters.
On the personality side of this maturity coin are some scratches, too. I am still too proud, and don’t like investing time and energy into projects, even if I was stoked about the projects at the outset. Except with radio/voiceover schtuff. That is a blast.
So this little paragraph leads into this thought: I don’t want to go forward in life and feel like I’m not good enough. I mean, I don’t want to just work to live, and have a ho-hum job, and sleep to get up to work to have food and a roof to sleep under to work…until I die.
So on this trip there was some serious thinking about where I want to be, what I want to be, and how to get there. Plus the old question of the point. Seems like the point is convincing myself that there really is no point, from a philosophical point of view, so you have to have something that fills you with a sense of purpose. My Dad and sister talked about that and about how people in any line of work value that sense of purpose most when it comes to job satisfaction. Should it be any different when it comes to life satisfaction? Probably not.
Here’s to purpose, and to surfing.
To wrap up, I really want to read and surf. The reading is basically a placeholder for the act of reading, for chatting with friends, for discussion, for musing, and for anything intellectual. The surfing is like that but for physical pursuits, and for playing. Gotta figure out how to combine those two and get paid for them.